This section is devoted to messages received from crew members. Keri's journal – February 20, 2003 - 60 52 44 degrees South – 63 03 88 degrees West The wind has just calmed down. Last night it was blowing about 25 knots plus from the northwest and Northanger was surfing happily along under staysail and double reefed mizzen, speeding towards our favorite landfall in Antarctica, Smith Island.       We've had much company these past days at sea. In fact, since leaving Cape Horn there have been 3 to 4 Wandering Albatross soaring the uplifts off the waves, cruising nonchalantly past the boat. I've given up trying to take good photos of them, especially with my manual camera. Instead, I now take time to watch their antics – like the huge Wanderer that landed somewhat ungracefully behind the boat. Flaps down, landing feet lowered, then touchdown, but oops, surf skiing along on webbed feet, spray flying behind as snow would fly behind a skier surfing in powder snow, then foolumph, chest not stuck out far enough to land upright and face plant (or should I say beak plant). Regardless, landing successful.       The Wandering Albatross is one of the largest of all seabirds (along with the Royal and Amsterdam Albatross's). They can weigh up to 9kg (20lb), feeding on skid, fish, fish eggs & crustaceans which they gather by surface seizing. They also search out carrion by smell. The Wandering Albatross spends it's adult life at sea, coming ashore only to breed. An amazing creature!       Flying along with the albatross were some Wilson's storm Petrels, so minuscule in comparison. Their flight seems more laboured, erratic, as if they are giving it every ounce of their effort to keep aloft, wings flapping furiously as contrasted to the Wanderers calm, effortless glide. Until today, these birds, big & small have filled our endless horizon.       Today, there seems to be a void in bird life. We are only 114 miles from the western tip of Smith Island and another 50 until we reach the volcanic crater harbour of Deception Island. We should have passed through the Antarctic Convergence by now and I had expected more bird life in this rich meetings of cold and warm waters.       But still, no complaints here. The Drake Passage has been fairly calm with fair winds and seas. Thankfully, it has not stuck to its nasty reputation and so far, has treated us well.       All for now, Keri Jonathan's journal – 22rd February 2003 - Deception Island Yesterday the whole tone of the cruise changed. We had seen land. First the stark high ice cliffs and sheer peaks going up to 2500 meters. Only climbed a few years ago on a previous Northanger expedition.       Coming round Smith's we got the full force of the wind and quickly reefed to staysail and reefed mizzen.       Next we saw what appeared to be the uneventful undulating plains of Snow Island until the visibility cleared and you could see the vast ice sheet scored with crevices that covered the island. Now at last our target: Deception Island was ahead and now no longer a blip on the radar screen but real cliffs and a barren wasteland of cinders and snow.       The sun was setting as we rounded the southern shore and the red tint just made the whole scene more surreal and alien. Huge icebergs glinted in the setting sun.       It was getting dark as I manned the radar and relayed directions to the helm to parallel the huge cliffs a cable off and enter the very aptly named passage called Neptune's' Bellows where the inner lagoon of Port Foster vents into the open Sea.       It was dark when we finally entered and with radar I vectored the helm within 2 cables of the shore and we attempted anchoring. On the second attempt the anchor held and we retired below for a leg of lamb and champagne to celebrate the successful landfall.       Sharing the anchorage with us was a Chilean icebreaker and we also made radio contact with Blue Pearl, anchored further up the lagoon. Tomorrow we move up and see what we can do to help them get underway. Jonathan's journal – 23rd February 2003 - Deception Island Yesterday was a very busy day. I came on anchor watch as the dawn was coming up and Deception Island gradually revealed itself to me. Bare cliffs and ice fields covered in cinders made up this stark and awful landscape. On the beach were the rotting remains of a whaling station.       Hot spots in the water were visible with clouds of steam coming out of the water at those locations. Apparently there has been volcanic activity here very recently.       Blue Pearl came to us. We examined the problem and I helped Greg make up some bits out of stainless to get everything back in order. Poor Greg spent most of the day up the mast with me as his support man. Eventually as it was getting dark we had the wire terminal at the top replaced to Greg's satisfaction.       Meanwhile the rest of the team went ashore for some exploring. When they returned they cooked up a magnificent supper so the day was well rounded. I was on dinghy duty and motored past rows of penguins and the occasional seal, all seemed quite unconcerned about our presence. Later on in the day a medium sized cruise liner came in and disgorged a gaggle of tourists. All seemed quite civilized until one tender came roaring by while Greg was up the mast doing high speed circuits of the the boat while the tourists all Yahooed. I am sure the tender driver had a few words from the captain when he got back.       The only fly in the ointment is the need to do anchor watches. The anchorage is unsafe and the holding very poor. On Blue pearl we dragged and had to move while Greg was up the mast.       Last night I heard the boat bumping on the bottom, however the on watch were able to re-anchor her and I was sent back to bed.       And so another day dawns in this very strange and hostile anchorage. Jonathan Selby Jonathan's journal – 26rd February 2003 - Dorian Bay The last day in the bay. Keri decided to move 5 miles down the coast to Port Lockroy. Niel, Roger and I decided to do the trip overland and film the Northanger as they sailed. The preparation from the trip was quite major and an hour later equipped with ice axes and provisions we were dropped on the beach and started untying the shore lines. I climbed the hill and set up the tripod and video gear. I got some good footage while the penguins all stood around and stared wondering what I was up to.       After Northanger was out of sight we all retired to the refuge and ate our packed lunch. Then we started what we thought was an easy trip. We were a bit blasé about the ice axes. However as we started to traverse the ice sheet we discovered it was not quite easy as we thought and had to watch our footing very carefully.       We radioed Greg who dinghied round to pick us up. The climb down to the landing was very sporting. Greg climbed up to us and cut steps in the ice. We were all very glad for the ice axes that allowed us to climb down safely.       The last part of the day was spent at the Port Lockroy station that is now a museum and post office, maintained as a historic site. It was all very interesting and Pete and Amanda were very hospitable, plying us with Gin and Tonic and describing the rather restricted posting. They get visits all the time from cruise liners. About 5000 tourists a year are whisked through the museum. They maintain the place and are taken off the base for the winter. Amanda was conducting penguin research in her spare time and Pete was in charge of maintenance. They were not allowed to visit the land outside the immediate environs. After our experience on the Ice sheet I can see why.       This morning another howling gale and the climb is postponed. Jonathan Selby 2nd March 2003 - Hovegard anchorage When cruising these waters, spectacular does not seem to be an adequate word to describe the place.       We sailed the LeMaire channel. This is a very narrow pass with 3000 foot peaks on either side. On the left the Antarctic ice cap dumps huge bergs into the water and we had to keep well to the right in order to find clear water. Ed was busy sizing up the peaks. For him this was a playground full of opportunity.       We were overtaken by a Russian ice breaker carrying tourists as we turned off the beaten track. We entered a world of stranded icebergs and whales swimming around the boat.       We put the big dinghy in the water and Greg, Niel and I set off to rope up the anchorage. Night was falling as Northanger gently entered the bay and tied up to the lines. A leopard seal watched as we raised the dinghy and secured the boat for the night. We had a dinner conference and planned the next few days. Today Ed reconnoiters the place and we plan an assault on the mountains. Jonathan Selby 5th March Renadsky (Faraday Base) A very busy day. We had marooned Niel for the night on a nearby Island and he spent the night with the penguins. Ed and I cooked a meal for everyone else and we all retired early.       This morning we were up and about reasonably early. I rescued Niel from the penguins and helped de-tackle the boat. I then rode shotgun in the dinghy ferrying all those who wanted to photograph the boat under way. At one point were attracted the attention of 2 leopard seals who wanted to play. These brutes can easily sink a dinghy and quite often are aggressive. It is hard to take them seriously with the stupid grin they have when they pop out of the water. Bashing the water with the paddle made them back off a bit.       We had lunch at Port Circumcision – an old Argentine base, now abandoned but in mint condition and used as an emergency cache and shelter. The boat was drifting offshore and I ferried in those who wanted to go ashore. The last part of the day was spent gently going into the Ukrainian Renadsky base and tying off securely in anticipation of the strong easterlies expected in the morning.       The evening was the most surreal of all. We were invited into the base and met the scientists. The place is immaculate with state of the art PCs all over the place. The place is continuing the ozone hole research. They will shortly have a 64 kb Internet connection although over a very expensive Inmarsat link. The radio room was very impressive with 3 Skanti HF transceivers. We ended the day in the pub. Exactly as the Brits left it when they handed the place over in in 1996. We ended the evening dinking vodka and playing pool with the base team.       This morning we started our wrap up mode. My job is just beginning – to bring us home with good weather all the way – that is the aim. Looking at a very nasty storm in the Drake right now I wonder. Jonathan Selby