Gates of the Arctic Caribou Trek

Stage Two: Over the Brooks with the Herd March-April 1998
Dispatches are logged most recent at top. They are sent by radio from the Thayers in the field to the base camp. From base camp an email transcription is forwarded to GOALS. The fax are sent from villages that have satellite dish communication links.


Dispatch 11
Thursday 9 April (68° 07' N 158° 09' W) We have left the mountains behind and are entering the great wide plain of the Noatak. Traveling today was easy, less snow, flat to rolling land with great empty space on all sides. Eventhough travel has become easier, we are concerned about the spring break-up of the river ice. We have decided to call for a bush pilot to pick us up and take us south to the tiny 300 person community of Ambler; here we will regroup, re-supply, and get ready to fly to the main herd and begin trekking with them.

Dispatch 10
Tuesday 7 April (67° 48' N 157° 45' W) The last two days have been very long. The good news is that the soft snow depth is decreasing as we head away from the mountains—we covered sixteen miles Monday and twenty two-miles today.

Dispatch 9
Monday 6 April (67° 36' N 157° 30' W) We set out today to make up for lost time, beginning at five in the morning. With snowshoes, we are plowing on through the soft snow. Saw ptarmigan and even a snowshoe hare.

Dispatch 8
Sunday 5 April (67° 27' N 157° 30' W) Today the winds dropped somewhat and the snow fell and fell—at least three feet of it. No travel is possible either yesterday or today.

Dispatch 7
Saturday 4 April (67° 27' N 157° 30' W) We made camp today still in the shadow of the mountains with storm clouds billowing over the tops from the south. Late last night, we were caught in a blizzard with howling winds still blowing today; wind chill down to minus 31 degrees.

Dispatch 6
Friday, 3 April (67° 29' N 157° 34' W) Traveling is becoming easier and we're making much better progress. More snow means that the sleds are manageable. Weather is good, 12 degrees with some clouds. Milestone: we crossed the Ivishak Pass highest elevation at 1:00 pm today and are now on the north side of the Brooks Range. Saw ptarmigan, snowshoe hare and wolverine tracks today. We will now follow the Cutler River toward the Noatak River.

Dispatch 5
Thursday, 2 April (67° 27' N 157° 30' W) Still snowing—this will help smooth the way for the sleds. Progress slow.

Dispatch 4
Wednesday, 1 April (67° 23' N 157° 28') Snowed all day. Very hard traveling up Redstone River. Many trees and willows. Not enough snow for smooth sledding. Sleds tip over easily but all supplies are OK. Will start over Ivishak Pass tomorrow.

Dispatch 3
Monday, 30 March, 10:36 P.M. (67° 20' N 157° 33' W) Saw lots of wildlife signs—wolf and fox tracks. Temperature in teens.

Dispatch 2
Sunday, 29 March, 10:36 P.M. (67° 14' N 157° 37' W) We were dropped off by a ski plane on Saturday afternoon (yesterday) on the Redstone River which is on the north side of the Kobuk River. This is the starting point for the Tuttu Expedition. Due to lack of snow on the rough tundra the sleds are tippy. Temperature today was 20 degrees F.

Dispatch 1
Thursday, 26 March, 9:00 P.M. (Selby Lake 66° 57' N 155° 37' W) The expedition will be called "Tuttu Expedition" (translated-Caribou Expedition). Six wolves killed a moose on the Kobuk River and are feeding on it today. Weather report: mixed sunny and cloudy with snow. Temperature 25F to 40F. It is Snowing at the time of this report. Preparing our gear today (Thursday). Hope to actually start the expedition tomorrow (Friday). For dinner we had steak barbecue over an outdoor wood fire in a snowstorm. A local marten has been coming to cabin nearly every night to investigate us.

Bill and Helen Thayer

Fax One from Ambler, Alaska 4/8/98
Fax Two from Ambler, Alaska 4/10/98