June 20, 2001  -  Land of Extreme Weather  -  Kongakut River, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

The morning sun bakes the inside of my tent, forcing me to seek relief outside the confines of nylon walls. Clad in shorts and a t-shirt, I head for the creek. A splash of frigid water on my face evaporates in the dry arctic air. A quick dip of the feet followed by a short bask on the sun-drenched rocks and I'm ready for breakfast.

The wind has picked up and I toss on a fleece and a pair of long pants. By noon, layers of clouds are stacked up like a wedding cake, and the cook tarp slaps the air in a feeble attempt to fight the gusts. I grab my rain parka just as the drops hit. The temperature plummets and I scramble to pull on expedition-weight long underwear, wool socks, a down vest and heavy gloves. Huddling under the tarp, I sit with my knees pulled to my chest and shiver as the wind and rain unleash their fury. The clouds begin to break and the sun casts shafts of spectacular golden light on the granite mountains down valley. A light dusting of new snow tops the surrounding peaks. I shed my parka and run a quick roll of film through my camera. A low fog bank creeps into the valley, limiting visibility to 20 feet. I layer up again, pull my fleece hat over my ears and start to make dinner.



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